If the leaves are curling, it’s probably aphids. You can tackle aphids with drenching the leaves with dish soap and water. If there are holes in the leaves, it could be beetles. Pesticides may be effective, but picking them off and dropping them in a pail of soapy water works too. If something is eating just the new leaves, look for signs of slugs. To battle them, pour some beer in a shallow dish and place it in the garden next to the plant.

Before you go straight to fertilizing, take a moment to rule out overwatering (damp yellow) or lack of water (crispy or dead). Next look at the foliage for signs of disease or insect damage. Could there have been a drift from a weed killer that might be distorting the foliage? With those things in mind, check for signs that nutrients are lacking. Here’s a helpful guide:

• Light green foliage and yellowing mature foliage can be a sign that a plant needs nitrogen.
• Chlorosis (light green leaves with dark green veins) can be a signal that a plant needs potassium.
• If older leaves are turning purple at the base and other leaves are dull, dark-green, there could be a deficiency of phosphorous.

If none of these fit the bill or if you’re not sure, a soil test can help answer questions about missing nutrients. As always, ask your local garden center professional for guidance in selecting the best fertilizer for your soil and plants. That’s what they’re there for!

Spacing your plants depends on the variety and your desired look. If you’d like to create a hedge, plant a bit closer together. And if you like some delineation of lines between the plants, you can add a little breathing room. Each variety also has a different size at maturity, so you’ll want to keep that in mind. For example, Summer Crush^® hydrangea matures to 18-36” wide, so you’ll want to plant them roughly 36” on center to give them enough room to breathe. Having space for airflow helps prevent any disease occurrence on the leaves.